I think “non-taxing and tasty” is a
key phrase when it comes to packing
boxed lunches, whether for children or
adults. Other key words and phrases
could include “nutritious,” “what the
school will allow,” “doesn’t need
refrigeration or microwaving,” and (of
course) “what my children will eat and
not trade with their friends for a
salty, sugary, fatty package of
processed food.” For what should be a
simple meal, lunch can be fraught with
problems.
Two Quebec dieticians, Marie Breton
and Isabelle Emond, attempt to make
our midday feed a bit easier, without
having to rely upon cafeteria staff
and preservative-laden grocery store
lunch boxes of processed meats,
cheeses, crackers, and fruit “treats.”
Translated from French, Lunch Box:
Creative Recipes for Everyday Lunches
gathers more than 90 recipes, most
with variations, to help answer little
ones (and big ones) who ask “What’s
for lunch?”
I approached Lunch Box’s
contents with one audience in mind:
parents packing lunches for their
children. To help, I recruited
time-pressed parents who constantly
manoeuvre around school-imposed
allergy alerts and finicky eaters, and
who, most importantly, willingly lent
their children to culinary
experimentation. Yes, they let me feed
their darling little (and
not-so-little) ones.
The book contains a lot of dietary and
nutritional information based on the
Canada Food Guide. The data is neither
esoteric nor ground-breaking, but it's
useful for anyone in need of a quick
dietetic memory jog or for those who
missed basic nutrition in school.
Several pages are also dedicated to
evaluating lunch containers, including
thermal flasks and bags and disposable
plastic containers. While useful to
the lunch-making neophyte, one
experienced lunch-maker quipped,
“telling me that a metal [thermal
flask] keeps hot things hot and cold
things cold better than other types of
containers is like telling me that a
double-double mocha frappe latte with
extra whipped cream is fattening.”
The recipes are divided into the
usual—soups; dressings, dips and
sauces; vegetables, legumes, and
salads; breads, pizzas, sandwiches,
and garnishes; eggs and pasta; chicken
and beef; desserts; and beverages.
Pages are cleanly designed and
illustrated with a mix of drawings and
colour photographs. Many dishes are
classified as easily frozen,
vegetarian or mains. Sidebars cover a
combination of cooking tips, recipe
variations, and nutritional
information.
Even with all this help, the parents
questioned the book’s practicality.
Some meals were too much effort for
weeknight cooking, but fine for
weekends. Recipes need to be adapted
for basic eaters and fussy eaters
alike, so (as with any cookbook)
effort is required to suit individual
peculiarities. Many recipes contained
iffy ingredients (for children, at
least) such as nuts and mayonnaise.
They all agreed that a number of
recipes, such as pizzas and chicken
fingers, would be unfeasible since
their children don’t have access to
microwave ovens at school.
I’m not convinced the translator
completely understands food and
cooking because Lunch Box
contains awkward phrasing, a few
spelling errors, and mistranslations
from its original French. Most notably
“Pâté chinois” was translated at least
once as “Chinese pâté” and not
shepherd’s pie, or, in one section
“Shephard’s Pie.” Another example of
possible language issues is the recipe
for Mexican Meatball Soup: I’m not
sure if the “chili powder” that’s
required is chili seasoning or
powdered hot pepper flakes, nor if the
“chili sauce” is the tomato
ketchup-like chili sauce or a hot
pepper sauce. More importantly, some
recipes are sloppily written. The
Cherry and Almond Scone recipe doesn’t
state an oven temperature, nor does
the Quick Tex-Mex Consommé tell you
what to do with either the toasted
tortillas or the lime.
This was not looking good.
With the help of parents and my eight
recruits (seven boys and one girl,
aged six to 16—no, I have no idea why
I’m surrounded by people who have
sons) I was able to narrow down the
choices for testing. Two (Cherry
Almond Scones and Tuna Wraps) I
thought would be very kid-friendly
while the other two (Mexican Meatball
Soup and Roast Beef Emparedados) were
better suited for adults at the office
or weekend lunches.